Gbejniet (Gozo Cheeselets)

Gbejniet (singular gbejna, written ġbejniet and ġbejna in Maltese) are small round cheeses closely linked with Gozo. Visit Gozo describes them as small, round mini-cheeses usually made from sheep's milk, and Visit Malta describes them as sheep or goat's cheese. Common styles include: fresh, which is soft, white and mild; dried, which is firm with a stronger taste; and marinated and peppered, coated in black pepper.

They show up all over the Maltese table. Fresh gbejniet go into home-made ravioli and into Gozo's cheese-filled ftira, where Visit Gozo describes fresh cheese and beaten eggs baked over sliced potatoes. A small round of gbejna finishes widow's soup (soppa tal-armla), and Visit Gozo mentions goat or sheep cheeselets with kusksu, the spring soup of broad beans and small pasta. Peppered gbejniet are the classic choice for a Maltese platter.

Where to try it

• In Gozo, on platters, in pies and from village shops and farms that sell them direct.
• On Maltese platters with bigilla, olives and bread in Valletta and across Malta.
• At markets and food shops, fresh in tubs or peppered in jars to take home.

Try all three styles side by side if you can, because they taste like different cheeses. Follow the producer's refrigeration and storage instructions for every style. The protected sheep cheeselet uses lamb rennet, so vegetarians should ask how a particular cheese is made.